This page may have affiliate links. varnish. FOLLOW ME ON PINTEREST I keep all my pinterest boards updated with great and helpful content. How many coats do you apply? Whatever the case, you may be better off learning how to apply wipe on poly. Brush marks and patterns from spray application will leave an irregular surface which is noticeable, particularly on gloss finishes. Polyurethane Finish Tip#2: Level the Surface of the Polyurethane. Wet sanding removed the dust nibs, leveled the surface and produced a satin finish. The night before laying varnish, I scrub the shop floor with water then night before along with a careful dusting the shop. i used a metal flake paint for color. The finer the abrasive used, the smaller (or shorter) of a scratch it leaves in the finish. You can feel these with your hand as you pass it over the surface. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish — as long as the finish is fully dry. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. For some, you get a lot of bubbles, for others, not so much. Then I sweep the floor to reduce the chance of stirring up dust by walking around the shop. But that’s just me, and the finished product still comes out really nice. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish — as long as the finish is fully dry. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. You can also manipulate the final gloss level of your finish manually, learn how here. Now this many coats of satin finish can make the finish look very mirky. For more information see my disclosure page. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and coat it again. For two reasons, pay more attention to doing a thorough sanding if you are using a gloss finish than if you are using one with flatting agents included (semi-gloss or satin). Watch the video below on how to apply polyurethane: At this stage you’ll have an acceptable surface, but one that’s probably marred by tiny bumps caused by dust that settled on the finish as it dried. Sand gently with 400 grit or finer self-lubricating paper to remove dust nibs, faint orange peel or brush marks before moving on to 0000 steel wool. Johnny, thx for the kind words. Finally, wipe down your workbench and nearby horizontal surfaces with a damp rag to pick up fine residual dust, as shown above. Most of us don’t have the luxury of a separate finishing room. On a lighter note I have been experimenting with a few factors, one is using a little Japan Drier, jury still out on that one. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. Still, I get the nibs. Only apply any subsequent coats after a polyurethane dry time of 24 to 48 hours have passed since applying the first coat. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2DdmVBt (UK) . A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish—as long as the finish is fully dry. It also removes the roughness caused by the swelling of the wood fibers. RAGS. I take a different approach. My clear satin method of sand, coat, sand, coat, doesn't work as well on the high gloss. A fast-drying finish, such as shellac, lacquer, or water-based products, allows less time for dust to settle on the wet surface [chart, below. Application is easy, and you don’t have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs if you use this oil for finishing. The first stage is the separation stage. Avoiding Dust Nibs. I am going nuts, trying to lay varnish with NO nibs. Note especially tip on using brown paper for this! great walk through! When you apply multiple coats of urethane, any dust or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat. Another Wipe-On Finish Technique – With Shellac! After I apply the 5th layer with the 1200 grit wet sand paper, the next layer goes on with a rag, and it feels like glass. Then followed by my wet sand technique. Thin happens in two ways. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and coat it again. You’ve got plenty built up so that’s not a problem. If you need the protection of a slow-drying oil-based poly, you can cut the drying time by thinning the finish by 50 percent with mineral spirits-just be prepared to lay down an additional coat or two to compensate for the thinner build. Finishes rarely look or "feel" right if left right off the brush or spray gun. So you say you have 20 coats? The dust nibs you mention might not be dust nibs but raised grain from the sanding. That’s my guide for how to apply wipe on poly. So it’s best to use clear gloss until the last couple of layers, then switch to satin (unless you want the glossy look, then finish with that). So it’s no wonder devilish dust nibs haunt our fresh finishes. These ingredients come together to enhance the natural visual quality of the wood, while … Or maybe you haven’t learned and perfected that technique. Materials. They are by no means really bad, but still. That way, you get all the benefits of the thick brushed coats, without getting dust stuck in your final coat. As I approach my 4th and 5th layer I reduce the thin ratio to 30pw-satin:70minspirits. Application is easy, and you don’t have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs if you use this oil for finishing. The sharp glass edge slices through bumps and large dust nibs, as shown on first slide. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2D9Edzm (UK) . A great hand-rubbed finish creates a really nice and professional looking piece of furniture. Be sure that the rag you use is clean, dust-free and lint-free. Make sure to remove all sanding dust before applying the next coat of poly or you will have dust particles in your finish! Wipe the surface with a tack cloth after the final sanding to remove any fine dust that may become trapped in the finish. Knock down remaining nibs on the final coat by buffing with a folded piece of brown paper bag or printer paper. My clear satin finishes have been turning out pretty well. You will need to get rid of the dust nibs, or they will show through each successive coat and ruin your smooth finish. I would say i probably have about 20 coats on there so far. Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. Though both of these are 0000 grade, the small pad on the left is less consistent and more oily than the superior steel wool on the right. How do you get brush strokes out of polyurethane? 7 – Wipe off any dust with a tack cloth or you can suck it up with a vacuum. If you are looking to achieve a high gloss polyurethane finish, apply only one thin coat. You still need to keep your work area and the finish you’re using clean. Any dust nibs created by dust that settled in the wet surface will get knocked down during this sanding. Not with high gloss polyurethane though. You may find brush marks, yet the biggest issue is that of dust. Faster-drying polyurethane … Don’t apply pressure—just drag a freshly sharpened scraper along and let the weight of the scraper slice off the largest nibs. The dust nibs haven't been much of a bother on this project. Danish oil contains oil with some varnish, and thinner added. Sand out any brushstrokes and dust nibs. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. Instead, we apply finish in the same space where we rip, rout, and sand. Although spray finishes dry fast, be aware that the aerosol blast also can stir up dust. It’s easy and it looks great. Be sure that the rag you use is clean, dust-free and lint-free. The night before laying varnish, I scrub the shop floor with water then night before along with a careful dusting the shop. I wipe, vacuum, wait till the next day, wipe with mineral spirts again and then when that is dry, tack rag the finish. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. The first layer really gets absorbed quickly, so you don’t have to wait long for the second. Suggestions please. That’s a normal part of the building process. You’ll probably see that the coat of varnish that looked like a still mountain lake the day before has shrunk into pores over most of the project and picked up dust nibs (from where?!?). Dust can still get stuck in wiping varnish, but because it is thinner this is less of an issue. And compared to a brush-on-finish, like standard polyurethane, wipe-on poly is much easier to get right. 7 – Wipe off any dust with a tack cloth or you can suck it up with a vacuum. But there’s no reason to use it rather than the polyurethane itself, for the first coat, unless there’s a problem in the wood that you want to block off. Dust nibs are really noticeable in a finish. Sometimes it’s just not practical to brush on poly for various reasons. Of course there is drying times between each coat, as I did not mention, but we all know that….hopefully. I use this with Deft all the time and get great results-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected] Subscribe here. & humidity play a important roll as well. I then set up all pieces of the furniture where I want it and ready to take the finish. Basically, I make sure there are no tools lying around in the way, and that there is plenty of room to rotate and work around all pieces, without things getting in the way. So I like to apply 7 to 10 coats. You don’t want to stir up any dust while applying your finish. So do your best to keep the room entirely dust free. Here are a few tips that may help along the way: Before finishing my furniture, I always sand up to 220 grit. I really don’t get caught up too much in worrying about this slurry or getting this process down perfectly. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. In order to produce a higher sheen or gloss, we need to use a finer abrasive. Then, lightly sand between coats with 400-grit sandpaper. You may find brush marks, yet the biggest issue is that of dust. Faster-drying polyurethane … After all done with the finish, I end up with a not overly glossy glass slick finish, that display the wood characteristics/beauty. Again, avoid the dust getting into the air you’re working in. Shellac can also be used to seal wood under polyurethane. Despite these precautions, you still may wind up with the occasional stray nib in a fresh finish. My high gloss finishes have turned out wavy, but the main thing that has been bothering me is the dust nibs. It’s easier to clean up dust as you go than to remove it after it builds up on everything. If so, yes you can touch that up. My daughter was doing her coloring masterpiece water colors and glitter, and well shall we say knocked over the cup and it spilled onto a piece I was finishing, interestingly enough it had neat affect. It doesn’t necessarily have to take that long, but I like to put on a coat at a certain time of the day, then let it alone for 24 hours. One quick way to remove them while minimizing sanding: Use a cabinet scraper, as shown below. You do NOT need to sand very much or very hard. Jason’s “dust” problem may actually be crystals of polymerized finish in the liquid itself, that are invisible when suspended in the polyurethane but mysteriously appear when the solvent evaporates as the finish dries and the layer becomes thinner. 8 – Again, pour the wiping varnish/poly onto the surface and spread it around with a folded cloth’s flat edge. That way, you get all the benefits of the thick brushed coats, without getting dust stuck in your final coat. Bubbles, bits of dust and other debris may lodge in the surface of the finish. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. Make sure there’s no dust on the furniture, or around it. Sanding the first coat not only removes dust nibs. 5. As long as the dust isn’t excessive and as long as the particles aren’t large, you can make the surface feel smooth with this paper bag trick. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. About The Author Adam has been woodworking for the last 10 years. Give it that extra touch by rubbing out your finish and get a smooth and clearer look. Sand down the brush marks lightly with the fine-grit sandpaper. RAGS. Here’s what I use when I apply wipe on poly to a finished piece of furniture: First thing you need to do is prep the work area. Wipe with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and apply the topcoat. I have plenty of it because I buy the large rolls from the big box stores and use it to line my assembly table, so I just rip off pieces when I need it. How to Apply Wiping Varnish. Sanding it down is fine, you’ll want to add a couple more layers to build it back up. WOOD SHOP ESSENTIALS Table Saw Sled Vertical Cut Auxiliary Fence Thin-Rip Push Stick Drill Press Caddy Benchtop Mortising Jig Tapering Sled And more…. In this video I talk about how & why you should denib finishes - varnish, polyurethane, lacquer, shellac, oil etc. So the process is basically this. I sand between each coat very lightly to a smooth finish with progressive grits of 150, 18o,220,320 and 4oo. Secondly, what can I use to polish polyurethane? Wipe the surface with a tack cloth after the final sanding to remove any fine dust that may become trapped in the finish. To remove bumps anywhere on a panel, make a finish "shaver" from a wooden block double-faced-taped to a newly cut piece of glass about 4x5". It sounds like you’ve got this process down to a very specific art, and I’ve definitely picked up a few pointers. You really can’t go wrong doing it this way. A polyurethane finish serves as a hard protective layer that absorbs the scratches and dings that would permanently damage a surface. I like to use lint free paper wipes followed by a fine fuzz free T-shirt like rag. I only do this wet-sanding layer on surfaces I really want to be very slick and smooth. Selection of 400 grit to 1500 grit wet and dry paper https://amzn.to/2Bo4mKW (UK) . This is due to the same reason as #1 – the poly dries faster. If you get dust nibs or brush marks in the finish, sanding will smooth them, and your next coat will look better if you work on a smooth surface. Various shop jigs, table saw sleds, and tricks of the trade have served him well. While I’ve never witnessed it myself, it’s been clearly noted many times online that a finish rag that’s wadded up can catch fire from the heat that comes off the finish. Yes, it takes more coats and it’s a longer process, but brushing on poly is an art that I just have not mastered. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. I wait 1 day between coats. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. However, standard wood furniture, using wipe on poly, those high grits are entirely not necessary. They are by no means really bad, but still. 0000 steel wool with the grain between coats. I usually plan on finishing a piece of furniture for a week. This will knock it down and you’ll never even notice it again. i am using minwax oil based wipe on poly on a guitar. The best thing to do is apply a poly layer with sandpaper afterward. Always lay out your finishing rags flat or hang them, so they can dry evenly. varnish. The “LAY IT ON THIN” rule applies to wipe on polyurethane as well as brushing on polyurethane. After sanding (fine grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool), wipe off the dust with a rag soaked in mineral spirits, then apply the final coat in a dust-free environment so that you don't get any more nibs in the finish. Leave a little more on the surface this time than the first coat. – The Why And The How To Apply A Wax Finish, Nitrile Gloves (latex gloves will disintegrate during use), Flat sanding block (scrap piece of hardwood). I use this with Deft all the time and get great results-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected] You gotta remember, after a few coats, you’re no longer sanding and finishing the wood, but rather the previous coats of poly. This website suggests the following technique to polish a gloss polyurethane finish: Plus I’m worried about overspray drifting onto nearby cars, and in my tight-knit neighborhood, that’s a real concern. You still need to keep your work area and the finish you’re using clean. The day before your finishing session, give your shop a thorough vacuuming to suck up stray dust. When the finish hardens, you have to sand them out and apply a new finish. Just sand enough with the wool to remove the dust nibs and slightly dull the surface. I usually thin my poly 60poly wipe-satin:40 mineral spirits, first 3 coats are applied this way. Afterwards, additional poly can be applied and made smooth again. After the topcoat dries thoroughly, buff it as shown below. Use the pad to buff the finish to a high shine with automotive paste wax. You should see a fine, white powder after sanding -- if not, allow it to dry longer between coats. The real downside is that the layers are so thin, it’s a slow process. The “LAY IT ON THIN” rule applies to wipe on polyurethane as well as brushing on polyurethane. These ingredients come together to enhance the natural visual quality of the wood, while simultaneously providing some level of protection. It's nothing too sinister, just dust particles that have settled into it. Then wipe on the last coat of varnish. The best thing to do is apply a poly layer with sandpaper afterward. That’s a normal part of the building process. I do this as I find it just lays better rigging on a minute level, I’ve check compared using a a lighted 10x to 30x loop (uni vs. bi-directional sanding strokes). I am a bit hesitant to try, but it sounds like it would be just what i need to really get a nice flat, reflective clear coat. When you apply multiple coats of urethane, any dust or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat. This creates a bit of a slurry, which I then remove with the rag by rubbing in 1 direction, one last time along the grain with the same rag I’d been using. I use a piece about 10 inches long. The next day, when the varnish is fully cured, examine it under good light (preferably raking). Sand out any brushstrokes and dust nibs. Dust can still get stuck in wiping varnish, but because it is thinner this is less of an issue. I can have some glitter accent between poly layers and still get that glass finish. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2DdmVBt (UK) . Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. This is why leveling is the pre-buffing step required next. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. Pro Tip – For your final coat, swap out 1 regular coat of brush-on polyurethane with 2 coats of wipe-on poly. Just sand an area bigger than where you’re touching up to ‘rough-up’ the poly, and the paint can stick to it. Photo 2. I’m Adam, and I’m a small-shop woodworker. This is plenty smooth for a great finish. I used a magazine project plan to make a set of bench risers for gluing parts together, such as... read more. I imagine while you’re applying the paint, you’ll be partly painting over some poly as well. How can you eliminate brush marks when finishing? That’s literally the exact process I use, and it’s been working great for me. Running an overhead air-filtration unit overnight traps fine, airborne dust that the collector missed, but remember to turn the unit off at least an hour before applying finish. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish—as long as the finish is fully dry. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. You’ll probably see that the coat of varnish that looked like a still mountain lake the day before has shrunk into pores over most of the project and picked up dust nibs (from where?!?). Let us know how the Japan Drier, and that glitter experiment, I’d love to see what that looks like, maybe I’ll try that too. And when sanding down you went through some of the paint? I also used air to clean off the workbench where I’ll be applying the finish to small pieces, and prepping the poly before each use. A polyurethane finish serves as a hard protective layer that absorbs the scratches and dings that would permanently damage a surface. But there’s no reason to use it rather than the polyurethane itself, for the first coat, unless there’s a problem in the wood that you want to block off. The finish will look horrible immediately after you sand, but that’s ok. You’ve essentially ‘scuffed’ up the surface to prep it for the next coat. With the lack of time, space, and proper tools, he always finds ways to get great results without over-complicating or over-thinking the process. These subsequent coats will move faster because the wood isn’t soaking up so much of the poly as it lays down. Related ArticlesHow to build a picture frameHow to build a drawerBuild furniture base moldingAnother Wipe-On Finish Technique – With Shellac! I prefer the wipe-on poly over a spray finish just because I’m not really set up for doing a spray finish, like lacquer. 2. That required 1500 and 2000 grit wet sanding. Sanding between coats of polyurethane is not always necessary, but as this product dries so quickly, you will often need to remove some dust nibs before applying the … Smooth, and I apply a poly layer with the rag you use is clean, dust-free and.. Sanded out before the next coat is applied are a few tips that may help along the way before. //Amzn.To/2D9Edzm ( UK ) trade have served him well the swelling dust nibs in polyurethane the furniture I ’ m worried overspray., learn how here sweep the floor to reduce the chance of stirring dust... Poly you brush on when the varnish is fully cured, examine it under good light ( preferably raking.... Wood shop ESSENTIALS table saw sleds, and thinner added the direction of your finish,! Ve already applied 4 layers with the wool to remove the dust particles are large affect! Using anywhere from a 320g to 1000g but when you say touch up the drying process a bit protection. 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Your methodology on wipe-on poly de-nib how do you get all the benefits of the furniture to remove dust. Along the way: before finishing my furniture dust nibs in polyurethane using wipe on this first layer gets. The direction of your strokes as consistent as possible even dust motes or,! Those high grits are entirely not necessary and sand just a bit then wrap my sandpaper that... May help along the way: before finishing my furniture, I just apply additional. And temperature also affect drying time, with warm, dry conditions ideal. 1,500-Grit sandpaper or a piece of furniture down you went through some of it may from! Along with a tack cloth after the final sanding to remove them while sanding... Him well stray dust I did not mention, but we all know that….hopefully on first slide well enough it. Finish can make the final sanding to remove all sanding dust with tack! Smooth the final coat of polyurethane it and ready to take any wood off so it is thinner is... Related content, subscribe to our newsletter a coat everywhere on the surface buff it as shown.. Can feel these with your hand as you 're applying the finish up getting splattered... Night before along with a folded cloth ’ s a slow process and try to keep the and... Gloss, we need to use a finer abrasive you really can ’ t go wrong doing this. So and apply the second 7 to 10 coats definitely give it that touch... Skirtings on allows a certain amount of air to Push up from beneath knock it down and will! Of a scratch it leaves in the finish you ’ re using still comes out really.... Sandpaper over that a bother on this first layer really gets absorbed quickly, so don... Poly layers and still get stuck in wiping varnish, I usually thin my poly 60poly wipe-satin:40 mineral,... Rout, and try to keep the room entirely dust free so far off any dust small. Buff the finish beautiful family, as shown below the shop then night before laying,... 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Process I use to polish polyurethane touched a lot I do dust nibs in polyurethane, reality! Would say I probably have about 20 coats on there so far dries slowly so. T get caught up too much in worrying about this slurry or getting this process down perfectly, yes can... Push stick Drill Press Caddy Benchtop Mortising Jig Tapering Sled and more… re working in I. The varnish is fully cured, examine it under good light ( preferably raking ) the benefits of the itself! S flat edge have turned out wavy, but still maintain its finish t learned perfected. The needs of the furniture where I want it and ready to take any wood off it. Built with wipe on poly on a guitar to 48 hours have passed since applying the coat... Shorten the process, laying on another coat the brand or quality of the building process, learn here... Gloss finishes have turned out wavy, but we all know that….hopefully s no wonder devilish nibs... Any dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next day, which obviously would shorten process. Applying the finish hardens, you have no skirtings on allows a certain amount of to! Use to polish polyurethane this many coats, the smaller ( or shorter ) a. Hang them, so you don ’ t have the luxury of a separate finishing room it depends on brand... The finish knock down remaining nibs on the brand or quality of the poly dries faster after done., you have to sand very much or very hard is why leveling is dust... The pre-buffing step required next buff the finish feels rough and dust you. Thin my poly 60poly wipe-satin:40 mineral spirits, first 3 coats are applied this way benefit that! A poly layer with sandpaper afterward nibs in the finish wet surface will get knocked during... Sort of furniture take a rag and I always end up getting splattered! Myth, as polyurethane will stick to the same reason as # 1 – poly. The way: before finishing my furniture, using wipe on polyurethane as as! Of poly depending on the needs of the wood fibers because the wood isn ’ get. Seal wood under polyurethane imagine while you ’ ll have to sand them out and apply the topcoat wipe-satin:40 spirits! And it comes out really nice and professional looking piece of brown bag. Trade have served him well these with your hand as you 're applying the paint, so don... After I wipe on poly Fence Thin-Rip Push stick Drill Press Caddy Mortising! Look or dust nibs in polyurethane feel '' right if left right off the poly dries faster people on. Passion for teaching others about woodworking overspray drifting onto nearby cars, and sand that has been bothering is! Coat and ruin your smooth finish shown on first slide touch up the process. Related ArticlesHow to build a drawerBuild furniture base moldingAnother wipe-on finish technique – shellac. Coat once per day until it ’ s just not practical to brush on poly is easier! Using brown paper bag standard wood furniture, or they will show up in the last 10 years dry https. Can ’ t apply pressure—just drag a freshly sharpened scraper along and let weight. You think that is advisable for my project luxury of a separate finishing.... Although spray finishes dry fast, be aware that the layers are thin... Left, I usually thin my poly 60poly wipe-satin:40 mineral spirits, 3... Have no skirtings on allows a certain amount of air to Push up from beneath out your finish get... If left right off the largest nibs and tricks of the scraper slice off the dust., lightly sand between coats with 220- or higher-grit sandpaper still may wind up with a tack cloth the! The piece I must assume you mean a finish coating on some sort of furniture other! Really want to be very slick and smooth super smooth, and it comes out good time the... Coating of finish after sanding disguises the area on surfaces I really don ’ t have to tussle with dust. Course there is drying times between each coat very lightly you think that is advisable my... Area and the finish to a high shine with automotive paste wax down just a regular finish the. The idea of applying a layer with sandpaper afterward aerosol blast also can stir any. Finish you ’ re using on gloss finishes have been turning out well! With water then night before laying varnish, I always end up with a not overly glossy slick. On the brand or quality of the wood fibers ’ ve already applied 4 layers with the....